Working
at the Heard Museum Book Store allows me to find more nifty books
than I would normally see were I simply to wander into a National
Park book store (something I do more often than you might think), so
I was already familiar with a couple of other Roger Naylor titles:
Death Valley: Hottest Place On Earth
and Arizona: Kicks On Route 66. These
inexpensive and lavishly photographed books are full of lore and
suggestions of interesting places to visit, so when Boots &
Burgers: An Arizona Handbook For Hungry Hikers
came over the transom, I bought it so fast my receipt is singed
around the edges.
Boots
& Burgers combined my two
favorite things in the world, hiking and eating at diners after
hiking – what a natural! So I went through the book with a
fine-tooth comb and started marking hikes I want to do, along with
their accompanying diner suggestions. I knew I would review this
book, so I was prepared to say all sorts of nice things about the
fact that most of the hikes listed in the book are new to me, so I
have lots of lovely exploration to do. Likewise, I had never eaten
at most of these diners, and I love burgers. A match made in heaven.
The directions to the trail heads are clear, the exertion level is
accurate, and the diner reviews make my mouth water. Good stuff!
Get down here and by this book right now!
But
this is a book about adventure and exploration. Is one review
enough? I think Boots & Burgers
requires special treatment. I haven't done my job as a reviewer
unless I go on at least some of these hikes, eat at some of these
diners, and then tell you how they were. I am prepared to make this
sacrifice. Because I'm just that kinda guy.
So
– the first hike that tempted me was the Red Mountain trail, just
north of Flagstaff on HWY 180, the same road that will take you to
the Grand Canyon if you don't want to take HWY 89. There's nothing
wrong with HWY 89 of course – after all, it takes you past Wupatki
and Sunset Crater. But HWY 180 may be the road less traveled, unless
you're really into skiing at Snow Bowl, or you can't resist the
observatory or the museums – or . . .
Okay,
maybe it's NOT the road less traveled. But on the Thursday we went
looking for Red Mountain, there weren't a lot of people sharing the
highway with us. The book warned us to watch for the mile marker
after the Red Mountain sign, and this proved to be completely
accurate. We turned left onto a forest road, drove past the sign
warning us not to park in undesignated parking areas – you need to
go to the end, where it loops, and THEN you can improvise a parking
spot. Just try not to block the road. Not that anyone showed up
while we were there – probably because everyone else knew that if
you want to see the magnificent formations inside that
partially-collapsed cinder cone, you need to show up in the morning,
when light will ignite the full glory of those fantastical shapes.
The
trail leads through a forest of junipers, ponderosas, and scented
scrub – you see glimpses of the rock formations looming over it
all, further down the trail. This is when you're saying to yourself,
Dang! I wish we had gotten here before noon!
Because those volcanic-tuff hoodoos are in shadow in the afternoon.
They are mere shadows of themselves.
What's
cool is that eventually you reach the cone, and you have to climb a
short ladder to get up among the hoodoos. Somehow it all reminds me
of scenes from The Lord of the Rings,
when the company of friends travel into lands long abandoned to find
half-ruined statues of ancient heroes. The formations are
fantastical even in the half-light, and you will be busy snapping
pictures of them. By the way – please don't be a jerk and climb on
them.
On the way back down, I tested Roger's claim that Ponderosas smell like
vanilla – and it's true. Put your nose right up next to them and
breathe deep. The scent is amazing. And it only took me 56 years to
find that out.
We
had already located Mama Burgers on the way down – it's right on
the elbow part of the bend that becomes HWY 180. It's a little place,
and many of the employees are teenagers. I was tempted to try one of
the shakes – I hear they're amazing, so I'll do that come summer –
but I stuck to a burger and fries. My husband did the same, but he
picked the Mamaburger, while I had the one with bacon and avocado.
They
were EXCELLENT.
So
five stars for the Red Mountain hike and the Mama Burger joint. Now
– time to pick the next hike . . .
